Off the Beaten Path: Hikes, Backpacks, and Travels

Mountain Biking Heaven

Posted on June 13, 2012 by westerner54

Western Montana is mountain biker’s heaven, and I think that Helena has some of the best singletrack trails in the state. There are miles and miles of trails that start right from town, so if you live in the downtown area, there’s no need to haul your bike to a trailhead. Or, if you’re lucky enough to visit, you can rent a bike from the Great Divide Cyclery right downtown and start your ride immediately. (Their website has a link to a map of the Helena trails: pretty cool.)

Last summer I only took a couple of rides, because I’d somehow developed a superstitious fear that I was going to fall and seriously hurt myself. And having the confidence that you’re going to stay on the bike is kind of key to mountain biking! It was pretty depressing, because I couldn’t seem to shake the nervousness, and I thought I’d lost one of my favorite sports. And despite the fact that I’ve written about my various fears on this blog, I’m really not a fearful person.

So I’m pretty pleased to see that whatever it was that was spooking me last year has gone away. How weird is that? But it’s fun again – still darn hard – but fun.

So, if you’re visiting Helena – bring your bike! Here are pictures from my ride yesterday: the Tubbs Trail to the Ambrose Trail to the Diretissima Trail. Not too difficult, but you can make it harder by just heading up higher.

Tubbs Trail, with Mt. Helena in background

cute tree swallow couple

still too chicken to ride down the steep parts – but that’s OK

don’t want to come up on this too fast, that’s for sure

really…how sweet is this trail?

can you see the Sleeping Giant?

awww…

Posted in Adventure, Montana, Nature, Outdoors, Travel | Tagged biking trails Montana, Mountain biking, mountain biking Helena | 10 Comments

A Little Rain? A Little Snow? Who Cares if You’re in Blodgett Canyon?

Posted on June 6, 2012 by westerner54

A few years ago a friend of mine from New Jersey was surprised that I wanted to head to the Caribbean in May. “Why leave in May? Just when the weather is getting wonderful, and you can start backpacking?”

Right. We’ve done a May trip to Blodgett Canyon in the Bitterroot Valley for a number of years, and this is pretty much the typical scene:

Of course, there really is a lot of beauty in May, and this year most of the month was sunny and warm. We just jinxed the weather by deciding to go to Blodgett at the end of the month. Nice to know we have that power.

Blodgett Canyon is a great choice for an early season hike, since the trail follows Blodgett Creek and stays low for a number of miles up the canyon. The trailhead is a couple of miles north of Hamilton, on the west side of the Bitterroot River. There’s a nice little campground at the trailhead, too. It’s a grand family hike since it’s not too much of a climb, and you can just go as far as you want up the canyon. The scenery is spectacular, the fishing is good, and we’ve seen moose, elk and even a mountain goat one year.

Posted in Backpacking, Hiking, Montana, Outdoors, Travel | Tagged Blodgett Canyon, Montana hikes | 11 Comments

Baby Bison: Cute Little Buckers!

Posted on May 26, 2012 by westerner54

I spent a couple of days in Yellowstone again this week, because I knew the bison were calving, and I wanted to have a chance to watch the antics of the little orange calves before the summer crowds arrive. I hadn’t remembered, though, how feisty last year’s calves can be. It’s as if the older siblings are showing off for the little ones.

The group I was watching crossed the road, and headed down to the Lamar River, which is flowing pretty fast right now. The herd started crossing, and I started taking a movie. I was so engrossed in watching the mothers and calves struggling to get across the river that I forgot that there were still bison up near me. This next clip shows what happens when you’re surprised by a bison that gets too close.

This would have been a great video if I hadn’t had to dash back to the safety of the car. As it is, it’s simply a cautionary tale – pay attention when you’re surrounded by big animals!

It was a grand evening – a storm rolled through the Lamar Valley, and the shadows, sunlight, clouds, and rainbows were incredible.

Posted in Adventure, Montana, Nature, Travel, Wildlife, Yellowstone | Tagged bison, Montana, wildlife, Yellowstone | 9 Comments

The Indispensables

Posted on May 21, 2012 by westerner54

Those first couple of miles of the first backpack of the season are always tough, aren’t they? Hiking without a pack never prepares me for the shock of suddenly hauling all that extra weight, and my hips and shoulders are certainly not shy about letting me know that they think this is a stupid idea. And when it’s 55 degrees and windy when you exit the car at the trailhead, it’s definitely a case of mind over matter for the first hour.

So on our first backpack this past weekend, I distracted myself by making a list of those items that I absolutely have to have to make backpacking fun. One of them is above: a reward (in this case bourbon and cashews) at the end of the trail is a must!

Here are the rest:

1. A mountain man partner/husband who is always willing to carry the heavy stuff, and who is even willing to carry BOTH of our packs when we drop them at a high point to look for a good campspot, and then decide to camp way below where we left our packs. I should be ashamed to post this picture, but I’m not.

He might look like he’s crabby about doing this, but he’s not. Really.

2. My Big Agnes Air Core sleeping pad. I’ve just had this lightweight, inflatable pad for two years, but I can’t imagine how I slept without it. Now when I don’t sleep it’s not because of the hard ground. I have the uninsulated one, which is fine for warm weather, but am about to upgrade to the insulated version. So if you’re going to buy one, I’d suggest spending the extra money for the insulation.

3. My Crazy Creek camp chair. I have friends who insist that it’s just as comfortable to use your empty backpack as a backrest, but they’re wrong.

How could I do this with a backpack?

4. A tent that is roomy enough for two people, with a good rainfly that really does keep out the rain. I never used to think that a door on each side was important, but since we’ve had the REI Half Dome, I’ve decided that they are indeed indispensable, not least because they allow me to wake up and see the wonderful view without getting out of my sleeping bag:

5. A comfortable backpack. I spent too many years using a backpack that didn’t fit, thinking that I just had to deal with pain in my shoulders during the whole trip. I’ve had my Deuter Air Core for about 10 years, and I love it. My shoulders protest at the beginning of a hike, but after the initial shock, they’re fine.

Modeling my pack. Stylin’, eh?

6. A fire, especially if it’s cold. I know, there are backpacking purists out there who think a fire is wrong, and I understand. And I don’t have one in places where you’re not supposed to. And if we’re not camping in a spot that already has a used fire ring, we just build a little one and then fix the spot in the morning so we’ve definitely “left no trace.” But if there’s a fire ring there already…I’m gonna use it.

7. Coffee in the morning.

8. Whiskey in the evening.

9. And finally, a good view. Not usually too hard to come by.

Posted in Adventure, Backpacking, Camping, Hiking, Outdoors, Travel | Tagged Backpacking, backpacking equipment, Camping, hiking, Montana, outdoors | 10 Comments

I’ve Never Known Where I’m Going…But I Know I’m There. Go Figure.

Posted on May 15, 2012 by westerner54

One of the things I absolutely do not miss about working are the yearly “goal-setting” meetings. Ugh. Year after year, an enthusiastic consultant would give us some variation of the “if you don’t know where you’re going, how will you know you’re there?” spiel, and then we’d break into groups to spend fruitless time setting our “goals” for the year. We’d all dutifully set goals that we knew we could meet, so that at the end of the year we could say that we were “there.” Of course, at different points during the year inspiration struck, we went off in totally different directions, and the end result was that we ended up in a different – and quite often better – place.

Even though I no longer need to set “fake” goals, I have to admit that I enjoy planning our weekend activities. But the best things seem to happen when we change plans at the last-minute and just explore. On Saturday we set off for the Tobacco Root Mountains for a couple of days of long hikes. It was a beautiful spring day, perfect for hiking.

But as we passed the sign for the little almost-ghost-town of Pony, we decided that some exploring was called for, even if it meant less time for hiking. The town is charming, with a beautiful setting at the foot of 10,000 foot Hollowtop Mountain, but the big reward on Saturday was finding a bluegrass jam session and contest going on all day at the old schoolhouse. We listening to great musicians jamming all afternoon, shared a potluck supper, and then stayed for an impromptu concert that night. Perfect small town Montana, and for me, a great example of how important it is to be willing to let go of those plans.

Posted in Life, Montana, Travel | Tagged bluegrass, fiddlers, Montana bluegrass, music, Pony Montana | 6 Comments

Backpack to Casey Meadow

Posted on May 10, 2012 by westerner54

Casey Meadow, in the Elkhorn Mountains, is a great early season backpacking destination. It’s close to Helena, the three-mile hike to the meadow isn’t too strenuous, and it’s one of the few high places that is free of snow in June. Last year we headed up in early June, camped in the meadow, and climbed Casey Peak the next day. The Casey Peak trailhead is at 5100 feet, and the meadow is about 6400 feet. Thirteen hundred feet in elevation spread over three miles is totally comfortable for me when I’m carrying a 30 lb. pack, so this hike is a great for getting backpacking muscles back in shape. The trail follows a creek to the meadow, so there’s no need to carry tons of water, either. Lots of raspberries along the trail, too, so it’s a nice destination at the end of the summer as well.

Casey Peak is another 3 miles and 2000 feet above the meadow at 8491 feet. It’s a pretty steep trail, even with more than a dozen switchbacks, so I was glad to do it as a day hike and not be lugging my heavy pack. But you certainly could camp near the top of the peak, if you don’t mind hauling water up – and if no lightning is in the forecast!

The sunsets were the highlight of the trip, but we found a great campsite in the meadow, and the hike up Casey was absolutely rewarding.

The fires of 1988 (when Yellowstone burned) burned thousands of acres in the Elkhorn Mountains as well. So these tree in the foreground are about 24 years old.

The old fire lookout on the top of Casey Peak. You wouldn’t want to camp on these rocks, but there’s a nice saddle right below the peak.

Posted in Hiking, Montana, Nature, Outdoors, Travel | Tagged Casey Peak Montana, Montana backpacking | 12 Comments

“U R Brave”

Posted on May 2, 2012 by westerner54

Last year I posted on YouTube a video of some Yellowstone wolves crossing the road in front of me. One of the first comments was just one line: “U R brave.” I didn’t think it was brave, but it looked that way to someone out there.

Of course, courage is subjective. If you’re not afraid to do something, it doesn’t take courage to do it.

This week I did something that took a bit of courage for me. I camped in a tent, all by myself, in Mammoth campground in Yellowstone National Park. (Actually, it’s taking some courage to even write that: in my head I’m hearing people laughing at me and saying, “Really? That took courage??”) But here’s the thing: I’m 58 years old, and in the 29 years I’ve been married I’ve done plenty of solo hiking, biking, and travelling, but I’ve never actually spent a night by myself in a tent – and certainly not in grizzly country. I know how to change a flat tire, but have never had to do it, and I’d never even been solely responsible for putting up the tent or making the campfire. And, of course, there’s my fear of grizzly bears.

But, I really do mean that this took a “bit” of courage. It’s not like I suddenly overcame a fear of heights and walked across an abyss. Nonetheless, it feels good. And I had a marvelous couple of days. The gods even rewarded me with the chance to watch wolves and bears and bighorn sheep without the crowds of people who are usually present. And I managed to get the tent up, and make a campfire without a single mistake. I mean, really, just check out this great fire:

And sleeping alone in the tent felt perfectly comfortable. Something did wake me up around 4 in the morning, and I lay awake for a while wondering if the end was in sight. But I eventually fell back asleep. Once it got light, I could see what the noise was:

And since I was up so nice and early, I headed out toward the Lamar Valley to see what animals I could spot. And was I ever rewarded! I first saw a stunning group of big horn sheep:

And a fat and healthy looking black bear along the side of the road:

Then I found the wolves.

Usually when you see wolves in Yellowstone, you’re accompanied by a bevy of photographers with their long lenses.

That can be entertaining in itself, but it’s much more fun to make your own discovery. And to then have the viewing all to yourself…well, that’s just unheard of.

But that’s just what happened this week. I pulled off the road, and after just a few minutes I saw two wolves running down a slope, straight at me. They spooked a big horn sheep, who ran up the slope. They came within a couple of hundred feet of me, and were joined by another wolf. The three of them tussled around, and I got to watch them, by myself, for about 15 minutes before other people came. Cars did drive by, but I think because I don’t have one of those big scopes, no one thought I was seeing anything. Fine with me!

Perfect. Here they are:

Posted in Adventure, Hiking, Life, Montana, Nature, Outdoors, Travel, Yellowstone | Tagged adventure, adventure at any age, bears, bighorn sheep, Camping, courage, elk, fear, grizzly bears, Montana, wolves, Yellowstone | 25 Comments

Chaudiere Pool, Dominica

Posted on April 27, 2012 by westerner54

A few years ago an issue of Backpacker magazine included articles on both McCart Lookout in southwestern Montana and Grand Gulch in southeastern Utah, two places I just love. I was both pleased and dismayed: pleased that the magazine agreed that these two wonderful spots were worth writing about, but dismayed because I didn’t want the whole world to know about them. I wrote to them about this, and concluded my letter by saying, “I haven’t yet seen a feature on my third favorite place, and I hope it stays that way!” The truth was I really didn’t have a third “favorite”, and didn’t have a specific place in mind when I wrote the letter.

So, when one of the editors e-mailed me and asked if I would tell him what the third favorite place was, I had the chance to choose. I wrote back and told him that it was Chaudiere Pool, a lovely deep freshwater pool in the middle of the rainforest on the north coast of Dominica. The magazine published the letter, and the editor added a note about my third favorite spot, but he said they wouldn’t tell the readers how to get there. Silly, since you can google “Chaudiere Pool” and have no problem finding it.

I’m not sure that the pool is actually my “third favorite” spot (how do people rank their favorite spots, anyway?) but the north coast of Dominica is incredibly beautiful, and absolutely list-worthy for these who like to do that. And by they way, the people of Dominica are just charming, so if you do go, I’d recommend riding the buses as much as you can!

Here are some views of this incredible island, starting with Chaudiere Pool:

Posted in Adventure, Caribbean, Nature, Outdoors, Travel | Tagged adventure, Beaches, Caribbean, Chaudiere Pool, Dominica, nature | 3 Comments

Butte, America

Posted on April 23, 2012 by westerner54

Folks in Montana have a special affection for the city of Butte. It’s the only city in Montana that has a truly ethnic feel: if your family is Irish, Serbian, Croatian, Finnish, Italian, Cornish, or Welsh, and was in Montana 100 years ago, you can be pretty sure that the copper mines of Butte touched their lives. The story is that immigrants landing in New York and hoping to work in the mines often knew just two English words: “Butte” and “America” and that was enough to get them across the country. The city still calls itself Butte, America, and there’s no shortage of pride in that label. Even so, much of uptown Butte is gritty and dilapidated, reminiscent of an east coast city fifty years ago. Whenever a Butte waitress asks “what do youse guys want?” I’m transported to the South Boston or Brooklyn of my youth.

The mines and the unions made Butte, and you can still see that legacy throughout the city. The old gallows headframes are scattered everywhere, but the reminder of the mines is just as strong in the old bars, groceries, boarding houses, and union halls that are still standing. It’s a great city.

Posted in Architecture, Montana, Photography, Travel | Tagged beer signs, Butte, Butte Montana, ghost signs, mining, Montana history | 14 Comments

Out My Back Door and Up the Mountain

Posted on April 17, 2012 by westerner54

My favorite part about living right in town is that I can pretend that urban sprawl has skipped Helena, Montana. It hasn’t, but the old downtown part of Helena butts right up against hills and mountains that are protected from development. The city stops and open space begins. No big housing developments, just mountains. The mountain that has defined Helena since the town was founded during the gold rush is Mt. Helena.

Mt. Helena above downtown Helena

Mt. Helena is actually a city park, thanks to the foresight of the Helena Improvement Society, who started buying the land in 1903. By 1906 they’d purchased 360 acres; today the city owns close to 1,000. I’m on the mountain at least twice a week, pretty much all year long, so I’m plenty grateful to those long ago city improvers.

I hiked to the top a couple of days ago and thought I’d share some pictures from that hike.

Remains of lime kilns at the start of the trail

I headed up the Prospect Shafts Trail on the south side of the mountain. The trail is lined with old adits (exploratory holes) that the miners dug more than a hundred years ago.